The jewelry art in Russia was impressive for the masters from ancient Europe. Yet, today fashion designers are also captivated with ancient art of jewelry to borrow the ancient techniques and decorations to create their own items. So, the temple rings were transformed into earrings of larger size, and charms today come as pendants, al the items are done using the technique of blackening, filigree and plique-a-jour which are still exploited today.
The art of jewelry in Ancient Russia was fascinating for Europeans since not only western technologies were used by the Russians. The links with merchants from the East had also affected the development of Russian craft work. Unlike the refined geometry figures most likely used in the East, Russian designers mixed various techniques which resulted in items of incredible beauty and performance.
One of the famous tendencies is granulation technique when thousands of fine metal beads are welded to one and the same item creating the magic play of color without using precious metals and stones. Here, the basics of jewelry craft work was used to make with the help of molding when the wax was used for more expensive and limited jewels, and stone mold were used for mass production items.
Due to filigree technique, whether superimposed or laced, the light and dynamic relief ornament was created. Today filigree is most known in the world as one of fine craft works and lately the bracelets done with this technique are too popular. In the 12th century, when items were made for mass production, one of the popular techniques were engraving ad blackening onto silver, while the background was made dark with the lighter picture and image above. The technique was skilful enough to create elegant and refined miniatures.
In spite of the fact that most jewelry was lost during the Mongol overlordship, the archeologists managed to restore some unique jewelry items after. So, pairs of hollow golden and silver pendants fastened to the headwear on chain used by the urban beauties within 11th-13th centuries can create the interest and concern of fashionmongers from today with the fine performance. Especially the golden pendants decorated manually with the river pearls and prints of the fancy birds with women hair made in the technique of the plique-a-jour.
The Grivna of Vladimir Mononmach is known to be lost and discovered by archeologists later. This chased medallion of the 11th century showed the lady’s head on one side rounded by eight snakes with the pray against diseases in Greek language, and the other side showed the archangel Michael who was assigned to protect the jewel owner from devilish intrigues. The finest performance of the medallion is too skilled that the jewel was estimated as the size of Prince contribution from the average city according to scripts of that time.
The term «jeweler» appeared in 13th century in Russia and due to new techniques and active use of precious stones the jewelry art was found in its bloom that period. In the early 19th century the Russian designers elaborated their own style different from the European standards, and almost every single jeweler had their own features and peculiarities.
Every master had his own style, his own unique jewelry items which were appreciated at the court of the Russian Emperor and by the royal families of other countries. Thus, the Easter Faberge eggs, different from egg to egg, were ordered by the Emperor for his family, while cheaper works of the jeweler like cigarette cases were afforded by less wealthier persons. Today Russian designers still launch unique works of art, staying faithful to roots, and, thus, many jewelry items made in Russia are still highly demanded at the world market.
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